EVEN ON THE MOST BITTER and blizzard-iest of winter days, Waqaas Fahmawi, a 36-year-old financial lawyer, would never deign to travel to his Stamford, Conn. office in a parka or puffer jacket. "I'm pretty conservative sartorially," said Mr. Fahmawi, who instead wears a single-breasted, notch-collar Aquascutum overcoat, hand-tailored in heavy wool-cashmere. "The puffer is reserved for the most casual occasions," he added. "Like going to the store."
If you're keeping score at home, that would be: Elements, 0. Elegance, 1. It's a point of pride among a certain set of professional men, from young analysts to Masters of the Universe, to maintain decorum in the face of wintry mixes and cold fronts, even as the rest of the huddled populace caves to comfort and function.
It speaks volumes that Mr. Fahmawi's coat is from a UK-based company. "The British are not terribly practical people," joked Alex Wilcox, who grew up in the north of England, and opened the custom clothing shop Lord Willy's in New York in 2006. "We're so steeped in tradition we'll sometimes forego practicality for a more elegant appearance."
He's being modest, of course. The British have come up with some of the most elegant solutions to wicked weather. Mr. Wilcox recently collaborated with Scottish brand Mackintosh to make a limited-edition version of their classic Dunoon coat, which he wears in inclement conditions. "It's a lightweight charcoal Loro Piana [wool]," he said, "that has been fully bonded to be completely water- and windproof."
Many men will forgo a coat as long as they can, using only a scarf, the rake's accessory of choice, for warmth. Their thinking: If I can manage without the encumbrance and bother of a coat, then why not?
In certain parts of the world, however, a coat does eventually become necessary, no matter how plush and protected one's commute may be. Classic wool or cashmere overcoats will do the trick, but some brands go one further. Valentino's Subzero Couture collection currently offers a tailored wool coat that hides a thin goose-down lining. Meanwhile, Brioni's creative director, Brendan Mullane, has been finding ways to boost natural fibers with protective coatings. Brioni also makes coats with discreet luxe linings. "The idea is to spoil the wearer with felted cashmere or fur liners that give not only natural insulation, but also a high level of sophistication," said Mr. Mullane. For fall, he created a refined cashmere parka with a beaver fur-trimmed hood that might pass Wall Street muster.
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There are moments where a dash of sportiness can be acceptable. Designer Simon Spurr, who was recently named creative director of British heritage brand Kent & Curwen (his first collection debuts in January), doesn't entirely rule out the puffer. "I'm all in favor of pairing a down jacket with a suit as long as both are perfectly tailored," he said. A few years ago, he bought a down jacket from Moncler with a shell made of gray flannel instead of the typical nylon. "It changed the way I dressed that winter," he said. Loro Piana's Storm System jackets, which are made of wind-proof and waterproof cashmere and come in a hip-length, ski style have also made inroads into the wardrobes of Wall Street. Though these come in dark neutrals, as opposed to the screaming brights of slope-gear.
For some men, the question of functional-versus-formal footwear is easy. A Dainite sole, which is made of studded rubber and is used by high-end footwear brands like Church's and Paraboot, "is the dressiest way to not fall on your face when it's slippery," said Josh Peskowitz, men's fashion director at Bloomingdale's. Mr. Peskowitz also wears brogue boots by Church's. The style, with round perforations intended to flush water from the shoe, was invented precisely for the slosh. Goodyear welting, a technique of stitching the sole on the outside of the shoe so as to leave the part underfoot unpierced, also helps with water resistance.
Opinion is sharply divided on the issue of rubber overshoes, which protect one's John Lobbs from Jack Frost and the pickling effect of sidewalk salt. "I opt for shoe covers," said Matthew Singer, men's fashion director at the Neiman Marcus Group. "They're easy to slip on and off and allow me to not lug an extra pair of shoes." Others aren't so accepting. Mr. Spurr said he finds shoe covers "depressing." He added, "I'll just wear my shoes and be careful on my way to and from work."
If you happen to be pro-cover, English boot-maker John Lobb makes the platonic ideal. However, the company also offers bad weather alternatives. For the gentleman who's not averse to boots with a suit, Lobb's director of operations, Paul Goring, explained that the company makes versions that are weather-resistant yet refined enough for a formal setting. Many of the company's classic oxfords and loafers, he added, can be made custom with Dainite soles and weather-resistant leather.
Upping the gauge of one's suiting fabric offers another level of warmth without compromising elegance. Kirk Miller, owner of bespoke suitery Miller's Oath, said he goes for fabric with more "guts," like tweed, which is peerless in keeping out damp cold. Flannel suiting is also a fine option. Brioni's Mr. Mullane upgrades the tried-and-true strategy of layering with silk and fine cashmere knits. He also adds cashmere-and-silk knee socks.
Mr. Spurr pointed out that accessories might be the most effective weapon in an elegant gent's weather-combatting arsenal: Cashmere-lined calfskin gloves are a must, as is a good scarf. For panache, he also relies on lapel pins and beautifully made umbrellas.
But then, no matter one's level of preparation, there will still be days when the weather simply wins. On those occasions, elegance might just be the ability to laugh through chattering teeth.
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