Guests at the Calvin Klein autumn/winter menswear collection in Milan on Sunday arrived to find bottles of Obsession on their seats, the designer's perfume first released in 1986. It was a hint of what to expect on the catwalk.
Sweatshirts appeared throughout the show emblazoned with the Obsession logo and that of the brand's other era-defining smell, Escape, from 1988.
While an older Klein customer will appreciate the military influence of an army surplus colour palette and tasteful classics like double-breasted overcoats and pin-sharp suits, creative director Italo Zucchelli is increasingly courting a younger, cooler customer. Enter that sweatshirt. Currently the key shape in fashion, Zucchelli combined it with the retro cool of an era – the late 80s and early 90s - when Klein reigned supreme. It was a clever move.
Klein's refound cool factor under Zucchelli has been slow but it's now burning bright. If his womenswear counterpart Francisco Costa has stayed faithful to the minimalism DNA, Zucchelli's mark is now enmeshed with the menswear. The Italian designer has been at the helm for 10 years but has only really developed his signature aesthetic in the past three.
"It's been really strong over the last couple of seasons,' says Caroline Issa, fashion director of Tank magazine. "Malcolm Gladwell says it takes around 10 years to become an expert at something, so maybe Zucchelli is having his tipping point now.'
The front row at this show was notable. Along with a who's who of editors taste makers like the singer Ciara and her fiancé, hip hop producer Future, were present. The brand is becoming notably present in the music world. The singer Drake wore cloud print T-shirts from the spring/summer show for his recent tour. Klein has clearly noticed the success Givenchy – the house that dresses Kanye West and Frank Ocean – has had by courting the new generation of fashion-hungry rappers and r'n'b singers, and is following suit.
The key is opening the brand up to a different consumer without losing the loyal customer base. While that sweatshirt is the Instagram-ready design, quieter pieces included sports jackets, cable knit jumpers and overcoats. The balance looks to be a successful formula. Turnover for the past quarter of 2013 was up 150% from the previous year's and pre-tax profits for the same year increased by 56%.
Vivienne Westwood yesterday showed cartoon kittens on T-shirts, hiking boots, and the long john shape that is fast becoming a trend. Westwood , who appeared on the catwalk in a pinstripe head wrap and matching suit as ever, also showed her political side. Notes on seats at the show proclaimed fracking to be "the big fight … we must think before we rush into further action to fracture the earth."
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